The introduction to American Cake by Anne Byrn is subtitled simply "The History of Cake in America," and in it, Byrn explains that "cakes have become an icon of American culture and a window into understanding ourselves"—that they reflect our "lives, heritage, and hometowns." Cakes somehow evoke a time and a place, either in personal history or long before that.
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This is very true when it comes to the Pink Champagne Cake, a mid-20th century creation, a bright, jazzy little number that screams vintage pillbox hats and fancy cocktail parties. Anne Byrn writes of this sparkling cake:
In 1960, women who frequented the nightclub scene sipped pink Champagne, or at least that’s what the gossip columnists said. In England, Princess Margaret was out sipping pink Champagne in the wee hours, and pink Champagne was the drink of choice of Hollywood starlets, too. Women’s clubs hosted pink Champagne luncheons on festive occasions. And when not poured into glasses, pink Champagne was a fashionable color of jewelry, even a shade of shag carpeting.
Johnson’s Model Bakery in Medford, Oregon, that same year baked a Christmas Pink Champagne Cake, and later variations popped up in Oregon and California. From the Yosemite Bakery in Modesto, California, to the Modern Cake Shop in Eureka, Kansas, where the cake was “filled with Bavarian champagne-flavored butter cream,” this cake was fun, fresh, and hip. It is still baked at McGavin’s Bakery in Bremerton, Washington, containing no Champagne, and at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo, California. The Los Angeles Times has said this cake is one of its most requested cake recipes of all time. It is just right for showers, bachelorette parties, weddings, and graduations.
This looks wonderful! I'm going to Bubblyfest this weekend so I'll be even more inspired to bake this when I return. American Cake is a wonderful read; I haven't had time to bake since picking it up recently, but I'm earmarking many recipes. I'm really getting a kick out of learning the stories behind the cakes.
Anne, I am the granddaughter of Henry Johnson, owner and baker of the Johnson’s Model Bakery in Medford Oregon. When I was a child I had my picture on the fruitcake box for Christmas and they were marketed under “Karla Kay’s Fruitcakes. Unfortunately I don’t have the recipe for that cake. Both my father and my two brothers followed in my grandfather’s footsteps and all became bakers. I am ordering your cake book and am going to make the champagne cake the next time we are all together.
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