There’s a reason croquembouche—or a pyramid of cream puffs, bound together with caramel—is a go-to stand-in for a wedding cake. Besides being delicious (my husband likens it to “crème brûlée doughnuts”), croquembouche is enormous, the sort of pastry pièce de résistance anyone would stare at and think, Whoa! I could never do that.
But to heck with that, because you can.
This streamlined version skips the hard stuff and cuts right to the chase: You eating lots and lots of caramel-covered cream puffs, no gown or suit required. If there’s a more standout—or popular—dessert for the holidays, we need not know it.
Grab a sheet pan and ditch the pyramid. Using caramel to stack pastries into a tower is a Great British Baking Show challenge that I did not sign up for. A rimmed sheet pan saves the day. The standard size (aka, half-sheet or 18 by 13 inches) fits almost 60 puffs—more than enough to feed most holiday gatherings—and you don’t have to worry about them toppling over before dessert.
Let a cookie scoop take the lead. Most pate a choux recipes tell you to transfer the dough to a piping bag, then hand-pipe equal-sized puffs. I don’t know about you, but I’m not that good at eyeballing stuff. Enter: my favorite kitchen gadget—the tablespoon-sized cookie scoop. Using this to portion the pate a choux makes this step of the recipe go way faster, and your puffs will look more professional, to boot.
Plastic baggies, too. To ensure that the baked pate a choux puffs don’t get soggy, I like to poke each one’s side with a knife right after they come out of the oven. The bonus: This hole is good for more than just venting steam—it’s also an entry point for the pastry cream. Which means there’s no need for a formal piping tip. (Does everyone have piping tips? I think not.) Just fill a lil’ plastic baggy with pastry cream and use scissors to snip one corner; start with a small snip, then adjust the size as needed.
Bring the caramel to the puffs. Not the puffs to the caramel! The first time I tried to dip cream puffs in just-cooked caramel, I burned my fingertips more times than I care to admit. This dunk is crucial when you’re building a pyramid—but we’re just cozying these cuties up on a sheet pan. So, instead of dunking the puffs in the caramel, we’ll spoon some caramel on top of the puffs. Plus, a sprinkle of flaky salt on top, because it really does make everything better.
Sheet-Pan Croquembouche
View Recipe
Ingredients
|
Pastry cream
|
| 4 |
cups whole milk
|
| 1 |
cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
|
| 2/3 |
cup (88 grams) cornstarch
|
| 8 |
large egg yolks
|
| 1/2 |
teaspoon kosher salt
|
| 6 |
tablespoons unsalted butter
|
| 2 |
tablespoons pure vanilla extract
|
| 1 |
tablespoon bourbon
|
|
Pâte à choux
|
| 2 |
cups water
|
| 12 |
tablespoons unsalted butter
|
| 1 |
tablespoon granulated sugar
|
| 1 |
teaspoon kosher salt
|
| 2 |
cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour
|
| 9 |
large eggs, at room temperature, divided into 8 and 1
|
|
Salted caramel
|
| 2 |
cups sugar
|
| 1/2 |
cup water
|
| 1 1/2 |
teaspoons cider vinegar
|
|
Flaky salt, for sprinkling
|
|
Pastry cream
|
| 4 |
cups whole milk
|
| 1 |
cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
|
| 2/3 |
cup (88 grams) cornstarch
|
| 8 |
large egg yolks
|
| 1/2 |
teaspoon kosher salt
|
| 6 |
tablespoons unsalted butter
|
| 2 |
tablespoons pure vanilla extract
|
| 1 |
tablespoon bourbon
|
|
Pâte à choux
|
| 2 |
cups water
|
| 12 |
tablespoons unsalted butter
|
| 1 |
tablespoon granulated sugar
|
| 1 |
teaspoon kosher salt
|
| 2 |
cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour
|
| 9 |
large eggs, at room temperature, divided into 8 and 1
|
|
Salted caramel
|
| 2 |
cups sugar
|
| 1/2 |
cup water
|
| 1 1/2 |
teaspoons cider vinegar
|
|
Flaky salt, for sprinkling
|
Have you ever made croquembouche or cream puffs before? Tell us about it in the comments!
Emma is the food editor at Food52. Before this, she worked a lot of odd jobs, all at the same time. Think: stir-frying noodles "on the fly," baking dozens of pastries at 3 a.m., reviewing restaurants, and writing articles about everything from how to use leftover mashed potatoes to the history of pies in North Carolina. Now she lives in New Jersey with her husband and their cat, Butter. Stay tuned every Tuesday for Emma's cooking column, Big Little Recipes, all about big flavor and little ingredient lists. And see what she's up to on Instagram at @emmalaperruque.
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